A car amplifier is supposed to provide constant power to your subwoofer. If you notice that the sound intermittently fades in and out when playing music along with the power light fading, this can be caused by many different occurring issues. This usually happens because there is insufficient voltage to maintain the current that is being pulled from the car amp. That is why the power light is dimming causing it to automatically shut down or go into protect mode. Now there are many ways that you can look into helping make the electrical system in your ride stronger. Its important and essential that you take this into your recommendation or you could damage the amp or the cars electrical system costing you more from your pocket in the long term.
1) Upgraded Battery. Normal ones are designed to start up the engine and provide power to the basic electrics such as the wipers, windows and dashboard lights. Adding extra additional audio equipment such as power hungry amplifiers and gigantic 1000 watt subs is going to place strain. Having a deep cycle battery will help store the charge for longer. A good one that we always say to get for customers is the yellow top optima. Its certainly worth its price in terms of the performance that it provides, also you can have one in the front and a second at the back just for it being dedicated towards the system.
2) 0 gauge wiring kit. The bigger the power and ground wires the better for your car systems. If you are using small cables that are below the ideal size claimed by the manufacturer, then your amp will not get the juice it needs to run to its full potential all the time. Some good companies that make solid wires is Stinger and Sub Zero. The ones on Ebay are cheap, however they provide more of plastic insulation than pure copper wire inside, tricking you that you are getting nice thick cables for a cheap price. We are aware about this because we purchased some for our homemade test bench system in the workshop.
4) Strong Ground. Now if this is weak this can cause your car amp to shut off because its not making a clean contact with the vehicles chassis. The best thing we always do is run down the area that you are going to place it with sandpaper. That way you are guaranteed that all the excess paint is removed from the metal and there is nothing obstructing the contact between both metals. Overall, providing the best possible grounding spot
5) Alternator. This upgrade should only be considered if you are running a car audio system that is above 2000 watts rms. This is because the stock one will not be able to handle with charging the car battery up consistently all the time. They come in different amps, the higher it is the more power can be charged to provide to the car batteries. This can become an expensive upgrade but its totally worth the benefit in what you gain because you will immediately notice the improvements in the depth of bass you feel and hear.
6) Big Three Upgrade. Now the wires that connect your alternator to the car battery are not the best of size when they come installed from the factory. This is because they are not developed to handle more load than you are putting with an aftermarket car audio system. So its best to swap all three out with zero gauge wires for the best current flow throughout your car. Its best to do this step at the same time of your alternator upgrade because you are already working inside the engine bay and have taken everything apart.
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