How To Fix a Car Amp That Shuts Off At High Volume levels On a Car Head Unit

If you have a high wattage rms car amplifier, it will need lots of current and durable voltage, from the car battery and will also require an alternator that creates enough amps, in order to allow the car amp to work to its full power potential, to drive your subwoofer properly. If you are notice that when the volume control on your car head unit is increased to its maximum volume level limit, the car amp shuts of automatically and turns back on when your turn down the volume low, then you have an power issue. Well the reason why the car amp shuts on and off is because it is draining too much current, from your car electrical system, causing the voltage to drop really low.

1) The first thing you should try is to apply an power capacitor, to your car audio system, as it can help the car headlights not to dim, when the bass hits and also prevents voltage drop, on heavy bass demands. This is because a power capacitor, also know as an power cap, stores an electrical charge from your car's car battery and releases the charge, when the car amplifiers is hungry for power, reducing the strain put on the electrical side of your car.

2) To replace the main car battery, with a battery that can handle more abuse, stress and strain, from car audio drains, i would suggest you an 12v deep cycle battery, instead of using the standard factory one, as it contains metal plates, to help current over a long period of time. This is because an deep cycle battery is specially designed for car audio purposes, as it can provide a fixed quantity of current in a extensive period of time, better than a large quantity of current in a short period of time, a normal car battery can provide, which sucks if you got big amps, that draw lots of current. The factory car battery is not meant to handle extra electronic equipment, just the standard electrics, that draw very little amps, such as car head unit, headlights, fog lights, electric mirrors and windows etc...

3) Add an second battery to your car's electrical system is also another way to prevent voltage dropping at high volume levels, but costs more then adding a power cap. This is because adding another car battery is expensive, as you need to buy an additional deep cycle battery, not the standard crap and 0 gauge wire, isolators and metal terminals, which can add up to an heavy bill, leaving your wallet empty, well for some people. Adding a second high performance car battery, reduces the amount of stress placed on the alternator, when the bass from the sub hits, preventing volts to drop.

 

4) Doing the big 3 upgrade, can surely allow more current to flow throughout all the cars electrical system, as you replace the stock wiring with thick 0 gauge copper wire. This is because it involves replacing three main wires, one wire that connects the positive post, also known as terminal to some, on the car battery to the alternator. The other wire connects from the negative battery post to a shock tower bolt and finally another wire from the negative battery post to the engine block.

5) Removing the stock manufacturer alternator and replacing it with a high output alternator. An alternator is an electrical component, fitted into an vehicle engine bay and is used to charge up the car battery, when you are driving. Stock alternators are created only to deliver small amps, just enough for the basic electronics fitted into the vehicle to operate them, they are about 60-90 amps depending on the car. An stock alternator if fine for small car audio systems that draw about 40-50 amps, amps that are around 500 watts rms, but if your are going above 1000- 2000 rms, your vehicle will require an high out alternator, so the amp can gain the amps it requires, usually more than 100 amps, which stock alts can't produce, causing the car amp to shut off, when your turn the volume to the highest level it can go to on the deck.

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